The History of Tweed

Tweed might feel like a fabric of bygone age, only good for cushions, the odd throw and not much else. But in reality, this couldn’t be further from the truth. 

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Tweed first appeared in the 1700s, invented by Scottish farmers to help them withstand harsh, long winters. The tweed was tightly woven to ensure it was as water resistant as possible. It was also incredibly warm, wind resistant and very robust. Making it ideal for the men who worked the land and for their families. It kept them comfortable, lasted well and helped them survive.  

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However, initially it would have been extremely thick and devoid of the intricate and colourful patterns we’re familiar with today. It was the fabric of a peasant man but, as we know, that was set to change.

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A vast amount of tweed began to be made in the western isles of Scotland. By the late 1700’s, plenty of crofts had looms and it was a major and vital industry for the islanders as they shipped their fabric to mainland Scotland and then further afield. The fabric was becoming incredibly popular and valued not only for its robust rugged texture, but also the skilful blending of earthy colours.

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Early in the 19^th century, Scottish estate owners were looking for ways to raise capital for their expensive houses and land. They found an enthusiastic market with the British gentry. It became fashionable for English aristocrats to buy or rent Scottish estates as a base for parties organised around hunting. Of course, robust tweed was the ideal fabric for hunting garments. Giving protection from the weather and ease of movement. From this practice, ‘Estate Tweed’ was eventually born.

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Around 1835, General Balfour of Balbirnie rented the Glenfeshie Estate for a few years. Traditionally, highland chiefs would provide retainers with the clan tartan but, as many British Aristocrats pledged no allegiance to the clans, they had no right to wear their tartan. General Balfour’s daughter was appalled that they had no tartan for their distinguished guests, so she added a scarlet overcheck or windowpane to the traditional black and white Shepherd's check tweed. This differentiated them from the common working man. She considered this their ‘tartan’ when in reality it wasn’t. It became their Estate Tweed and a new tradition was anchored in history.

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Estate Tweed caught on and brighter colours were incorporated, though it was important that these blended with the natural landscape to ensure effective camouflage when hunting.

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Today’s tweeds originated on these Victorian estates. It filtered into Royal life after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert purchased Balmoral and then it slowly filtered down into everyday life. The Estate Tweed is also a precursor of modern military camouflage. In 1859, Lord Elcho founded a London Scottish regiment. He realised that the bright scarlet uniform made soldiers conspicuous and vulnerable. He decided to create a tweed for his soldiers, naming it the ‘Elcho Mixture’. This then developed into the now familiar khaki uniform.

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Over the years, tweed has remained a staple in the UK and beyond. It was eternalised in the 1960’s with the Chanel jacket made from Linton tweed from Carlisle. A design that has remained permanently in style. With the Peaky Blinders TV show, the tweed flat cap has made a reappearance into popular culture and Harris Tweed has become a popular and pervasive brand synonymous with colour and quality. You might even see tweed on the ski slopes, its properties making it ideal for winter sports.

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Tweed is the kind of fabric you may not even realise you have in your wardrobe. It seems unlikely that it will ever disappear and, given its durability and sustainability, it feels like the perfect fabric for all of us for an earth friendly future.

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